A satellite view of the Marlborough region pinpoints the Ned vineyards nestled in the southern reaches of the Wairau Valley. Named after one of the tallest and most rugged peaks in Marlborough, the Ned is strategically located - straddling the Waihopai River and close to the Delta Hills this 268 hectare site is a larger size vineyard holding. From the first vintage vibrant sauvignon blanc, fruity and generous pinot gris and distinctive pinot noir have been produced.

By Cameron Douglas MS

The emblematic features of the Ned site and this part of Marlborough are the classic cool climate growing conditions, vines trained in vertical shoot positioning vines (VSP), the need for irrigation, an annual threat of frost, the presence of anti-frost wind machines, and vast flatland area for winds to breeze through. The temperature variability throughout the ripening season is a significant factor in the flavour development of the fruit – warm days and cool nights.
Soils are primarily a mix of clay and shingle and are very free draining. The shingle in particular is a reflection of the Waihopai River – the direction of flow it once took, and now a significant part of the wine terrôir. A notable feature of this site and important to the wine making are three soil terraces upon which the vines are laid out, 2500 vines per hectare – all cane pruned, each providing subtle differences in the fruit and wine for blending. The key water supply for irrigation is a purpose built reservoir which doubles as a bath house for native bird life.
Not as typical as the terrôir are the people behind the brand. Founder and chief wine maker Brent Marris has a long association with the Marlborough region, having grown up there. A 1983 graduate of Roseworthy College (South Australia) Brent quickly made a name for himself in New Zealand making wine with Delegat’s. He then established the very well known Wither Hills brand where, I believe, he truly began to manifest the power of sauvignon blanc and the charm of pinot noir from Marlborough.
The current 2008 vintages of Ned wines are from vineyards and vines that are still youthful yet the wines are exhibiting individuality and the promise of great things to come. They all have striking label presentations and are all closed in screw tops.
Why should you taste these wines and what makes them different from other producers in Marlborough?
Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (14 per cent alcohol) – is a wine that ticks all the boxes for me. It is, perhaps, my favourite in the range with its very vibrant, fresh and inviting nose of intense passion-fruit and light gooseberry aromas. The palate is fresh, racy and packed with tropical and herbaceous nuances. The pH in this wine is around 3.3 and gives a lively acidity with texture attributes from a touch of lees contact. The finish has a wave of minerality which sets this wine apart from others – a feature I hope to see in the 2009. The wine has a hint of residual sugar and a dry finish and this feature makes it very appealing for aperitif service and crisp, light appetisers.
Pinot Gris 2008 (13.5 per cent alcohol) – about 10 per cent of this wine is barrel fermented which this gives it a layer of complexity and weight. What sets it apart from others in the genre is that it both smells and tastes like pinot gris. Not trying to be pedantic, but if you are going to produce gris in New Zealand it should have a perfume and character true to its varietal, and Marris has achieved this. The aromas include pear skin and pear juice, hints of apple, white nectarine, a touch of peach and a floral lift. There is some deliberate residual sugar on the palate (7.7 grams per litre) and for me this balances well the youthful and vibrant acidity. For service, this wine potentially has appeal by the glass; it is off-dry in style and would suit appetiser and light entrée menu items that have a natural sweetness, but also some kick from acidity or spices.
Pinot Noir 2008 (14 per cent alcohol) is made from four classic pinot clones, then hand harvested and de-stemmed, with piegage (plunging of the ‘cap’ of the fermenting wine) by hand, malolactic fermentation in barrels and 12 months in French oak. In a market that is currently very challenged by stressed economies we want to be able to offer quality wine at realistic pricing – right? The Ned noir will be one of those wines with its fruity New World nose appeal (showing off all the careful fruit handling), a clean, varietal character with a mid palate sweetness and a very approachable style – in a youthful wine. The concentration on the palate opens the door to food pairing across moderately weighted starters and entrees to light, uncomplicated main courses.
Brent Marris has taken his particular skills and experience in the region to highlight some solid examples of what has made Marlborough a world beater. The 2009 vintage looks to be outstanding – fantastic for Marlborough – perfect for the Ned.